无人之境——青海星空拍摄之旅：世界尽头的茫崖石棉矿

一个从天上看被白色粉尘覆盖的地方，一个无论从什么角度看都符合世界的尽头的地方

生活

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格尔木到茫崖的新公路未来可能改善交通，目前通行体验较差。茫崖市包括花土沟镇、冷湖镇、茫崖镇，石棉矿引人注目，保留了60年代的建筑和历史，尽管附近环境恶劣。花土沟是典型油城，居民主要服务于油田。旅途主要是穿越戈壁，沿途景色荒凉。
无人之境——青海星空拍摄之旅：世界尽头的茫崖石棉矿

穿越千里戈壁

格尔木通往茫崖的格茫公路与格库铁路大致平行，上面全是来往新疆的大卡车，驾驶体验比较糟。不过旁边不远处新的格茫公路正在修建，将来交通状况估计会改善。

在中灶火有一些饭店，还有一个乌图美仁公安检查站，在这里排了几公里的队，耗费了不少时间。

A large, white building with red Chinese characters on its side, surrounded by a sandy road and a clear blue sky.
A dusty, old, white building with a blue roof and a faded sign, surrounded by a pile of tires, a blue trash can, and a white car, with a blue and white sign on the side.
A large building with green and white signs, a white truck, and a pile of dirt on the side of a road.

五百公里基本都是戈壁，很少见到植物。

A vast desert landscape with a large sand mound in the foreground, a clear blue sky with white clouds, and a distant mountain range.
A vast desert landscape with a clear blue sky, mountains in the distance, and a few scattered clouds.
A vast desert landscape with a mountain range in the background, a power line in the foreground, and a clear blue sky with clouds.
A barren desert landscape with a solitary red sign in the center, surrounded by a clear blue sky.

茫崖市、茫崖镇、茫崖行委

今晚在花土沟住宿。但经过花土沟的时候我们没有停，直奔茫崖镇石棉矿。我之所以想去这里，是因为早就在谷歌地球上注意到这片区域。

A satellite image of a desert region with a large fire in the center, surrounded by mountains and a road.
茫崖地区卫星图

在这里普及一些行政区划知识，厘清各种茫崖之间的关系。转自维基百科：

现在说的茫崖，指的是茫崖、冷湖合并后的茫崖市。

茫崖其名来自蒙古语“额头”，音“茫乃”，经过汉语的变音，成了“茫nái”。但因为汉语中崖没有这个读音，导致其他人看到都会读成茫yá。最终为了信息检索等各种原因，政府把官方发音也改成了“茫yá”。

茫崖市下辖3个镇，市政府所在地花土沟镇、原来的冷湖四号基地冷湖镇、以及石棉矿的茫崖镇。

我们今天要去的，就是茫崖镇的石棉矿。

穿越到60年代

在花土沟的时候还是阳光明媚，越往茫崖镇走能见度越差，天空变得灰暗，太阳越来越暗。按照导航，我们离开公路，驶入一条砂石路。

A desert landscape with a row of white wind turbines, a small vehicle, and tire tracks, under a cloudy sky.
A vast desert landscape with a row of white wind turbines, each with red and white striped poles, under a clear blue sky.

事后证明导航给的是一条绕着矿区的土路，虽然也能到茫崖镇中心，但更建议经石棉矿的农林科（福利区）到矿区。

矿区中心是一个小广场，周围分布着工人俱乐部、矿区综合大楼、茫崖镇政府、水泵房、医院门诊部等建筑，大多兴建于60年代。

茫崖石棉矿被列入第四批国家级工业遗产，保护的还不错。建筑的窗户和门被封死，其他区域则用围栏围起来。如果不这么做，玻璃一定会被打破，所有废墟都不例外。

An old, dilapidated two-story building with a blue door and a large window on the second floor stands in a barren, empty lot. The sky is cloudy, and the ground is covered in dirt and gravel.
工人文化室旧址。当年矿区中心
A large, dilapidated building with a blue door and a window on the second floor, surrounded by power lines and a telephone pole.
矿区综合办公楼
A large concrete tower with a round top and a small antenna stands in the background, surrounded by a fence and a pile of dirt. A blue sign with white arrows and Chinese characters is in the foreground, pointing to the left.
A red and white signboard with Chinese characters, advertising a museum in Beijing, is located in front of a beige building with a window.
工人文化室
An old, dilapidated building with a white roof, three boarded-up windows, and a gray door with Chinese characters on it.
小卖部
A dilapidated building with a blue sign on a concrete wall, a concrete pillar, and a covered walkway, surrounded by a dirt road and a cloudy sky.
水泵房
A large red and white signboard with Chinese characters, possibly indicating a building or landmark, is displayed on a dirt ground.
A desolate, dilapidated building with a collapsed wall and a door, surrounded by a fence and a barren desert landscape.
A building with a blue sign on a concrete wall, a window with metal bars, and a door with a metal gate.
邮电所旧址

更多图片见 青海茫崖石棉矿 。

为什么照片看起来都是灰蒙蒙的？其实你能搜到的这里的照片大多数也是这样。这里刮着强风，吹起漫天的石棉粉尘，肉眼看差不多就是这样。

革命年代的印记

在水泵房外墙上印有大量毛主席语录，提醒你这些房子虽然看起来像是80年代的，实际上的历史要久很多。

A weathered, gray concrete sign with yellow Chinese characters is attached to a red brick wall, with a small black spot on the left side.
A weathered, yellow sign with Chinese characters is mounted on a brick wall, with a person standing nearby.
A white brick wall with a yellow sign on it, possibly in China, is against a cloudy sky.
毛主席语录

农林科(大河坝)福利区

由于石棉对人有害，石棉矿的生活区便设在茫崖石棉矿区东南18公里处。1958年，茫崖成立石棉矿后，青海省农林厅曾在此设一农林科，进行种植业实验而得名。1983年后，国家建材局茫崖石棉矿在农林科地址附近设立生活福利区，建造办公楼、职工宿舍、医院、学校、俱乐部、体育馆、卫星地面接收站、招待所等设施，商业、银行、邮电、粮食等服务行业齐全，随后机关、职工家属陆续由矿山搬迁至此。

从茫崖镇出来后，我们走了另一条看起来路况更好的路，看方向是通往生活区的路。

A long, empty road stretches into the distance, lined with wooden telephone poles and bars, and surrounded by barren, dry land.
通往生活区
A long, empty road stretches into the distance, lined with wooden poles and power lines, under a cloudy sky. The road is surrounded by barren, sandy terrain and distant mountains.
通往矿区

途中遇到一处湿地，是当地的水源地。

A desolate landscape with a vast body of water, a sandy beach, and a row of wind turbines in the distance.
茫崖生活区水源地
A vast, barren desert with a row of white wind turbines in the distance.

石棉矿在网上的图很少，即便有也都是当年在这工作生活的人回来追忆时拍的，没找到专门到这游览的照片。然而在这里我们遇到了一辆辽宁牌照的房车，看来喜欢这些工业废墟的人还不少啊。

A gray pickup truck is parked on the side of a road, with a yellow building in the background featuring Chinese characters on its facade. The sky is gray and hazy.
茫崖生活区超市
A yellow building with a red sign, a blue car, and a tree with green leaves are in front of a yellow building.
石棉矿生活区
A busy street scene with a white car, a blue truck, and a green building with Chinese characters.
石棉矿生活区

说实话生活区看起来比我预料的要好很多，居民楼大多是两三层，并不像谷歌地球上看到的那样破败。

然而这里实在是太偏远了，最近的城市是70公里外的花土沟，而花土沟本身就是个极其偏远的城市，距离敦煌500多公里，距离德令哈600多公里，距离格尔木450公里。往西呢，到若羌有350公里。更何况若羌、格尔木、德令哈这些地方本来就符合一般人心中“偏远”的定义。

如果花土沟算偏远的二次方，石棉矿就是偏远的三次方了。加上漫天的粉尘，真有点世界尽头的感觉了。

油城长得都一样

我的愿望满足后我们返回花土沟镇。

花土沟是个典型的油城，只有两种人：油田的人，和为油田的人服务的人。油田的人很好分辨，他们穿着中石油鲜艳的红色制服，走到哪都自带光环。

在花土沟的时候我就总有种回到克拉玛依的感觉，因为这两个城市的街道、地貌都太像了，只是花土沟的人更少，城市更小。

A man in a black shirt stands on a sidewalk in front of a large building with a blue sign, a truck parked nearby, and a tree on the sidewalk.
花土沟街景

然后我们吃了今天第一顿热饭。

A wooden table with a blue plate of food, including meat, vegetables, and sauce, is set on a white napkin.
A wooden table with a white plate holding a dish of noodles, chickpeas, and green herbs, topped with a sauce.
A black cast iron pot filled with a hearty beef and potato dish, garnished with green onions and red peppers, sits on a wooden table. The pot is accompanied by chopsticks and a white napkin.
A wooden dining table with a plate of food, including skewered meat and vegetables, and a bowl of green beans, is set on a wooden table.

今天主要是赶路，顺便看了一个我自己一直都想看的遗迹。明天才开始打卡热门景点。